by Julia Harding MW |
I came across this wine at the recent Wine Society tasting in London and immediately earmarked it as a possible wine of the week, so impressive was it in terms of quality, price and unadulterated pleasure.
The wine may be full of pure citrus and pear-like fresh-fruit aromas and flavours yet it is much more than this, with a firm texture from three months on the lees after spontaneous fermentation (ie no added yeasts) in stainless-steel tanks, with lees stirring to create a more full-bodied wine that is nevertheless deliciously fresh. The acidity and the creamy texture give the wine shape and structure, turning something seductively fruity into something serious, with complexity that is notable for a wine at this price. The alcohol is a perfectly balanced 13%.It’s made entirely from Garnatxa Blanca, as Garnacha Blanca is known in Cataluña, organically certified, produced from their own younger vines (less than 20 years old) and from older vines that they rent. (Many of their own vines were planted in the early and mid 20th century and do not provide sufficient fruit for this wine.) All the vineyards are grown at a cool 420–500 m (1,378–1,640 ft) above sea level in Batea and Gandesa in Terra Alta.
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